Took the train from Miyajima/Hiroshima to Yamaguchi and from there the bus to Hagi. No tunnels! Hagi is well known for its pottery and many architects of modern Japan (end of 1800s, Meiji period) came from this little town. Not super exciting for a foreigner, but it is on the coast which I like. The castle was once big, but now only the foundations and parts of the wall remain. The Meiji restoration took power away from the Shogun and the samurai and gave all power back to the emperor. Since the castles were an important symbol of power of the samurai they were dismantled.
Besides me there was an American couple at the ryokan where I was staying. She was born in Japan so she could translate between us and the inn-keeper, who only spoke a little bit of english. And she knew a lot about Japanese history as well, very interesting.